Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Gino Bartali



Gino Bartali is my cycling hero, by a long margin. Not only was he a tremendous cyclist, he was also a great human being. As a pure cyclist, he is surpassed by only Eddie Merckx, and probably equalled by Fausto Coppi. I strongly believe if World War II had never occurred, Gino would be known as the greatest cyclist of all time.

Gino was born in Ponte a Ema, in Fizenze, Italia on 18 July, 1914. He was the 3rd of four children brought up on a small family farm in Firenze. Gino was cursed with a square boxer's head, and was ugly as a mule. He was however blessed with an extraordinary talent for cycling.

Gino began working full time in a bicycle store at the tender age of 13, and that same year became involved in bicycle racing. In 1935 at the age of 21, Gino turned professional, and within a year, was Italian champion. The same year that he turned professional, Gino won the climbers jersey at the Giro d'Italia.

In 1936, before his 22nd birthday, Gino won the Giro d'Italia, and the Giro di Lombardia. In 1937, he won the Giro a second time and contested the Tour de France for the first time. Despite leading the race by over a minute, and taking the leader's jersey in Grenoble, Gino and his fellow riders had an accident, with Gino falling into a river. Despite his injuries, Gino finished riding that day, but later dropped out. He was considerate enough to let the organiser, Henri Desgrange know that he was dropping out. This led Henri to say: "You are the first rider to come to see me before dropping out. You're a good man [un brave garçon], Gino. We'll see each other again next year and you'll win."

Henri's statement turned out to be an extra-ordinary prediction. Gino did return the following year (1938), and he won the tour convincingly. His win on the tour came despite the cold weather, and a puncture on the Col de l'Iseran. He was treated as a god by Italian fans, and rightly so.

Unfortunately Gino could not contest the tour again for years, due to the outbreak of WWII.

During the war, Gino used his fame to deliver important documents for the Italian Resistance, despite the risk of capture by Italian or German soldiers. There have been numerous diary records of claims that Gino Bartali had assisted Jewish families escape persecution or capture by using his fame to deliver them false travel documents. Gino was able to get away with this by claiming he was training, while carrying documents. Soldiers knew of Gino, and didn't question him. He did once get taken to Villa Triste in Firenze for questioning, but he continued his work doing what he believed was right.

Following the war, at 32 years of age, Gino won the Giro d'Italian in 1946. His winning ways continued, and he won the Tour de France in 1948, and impressive 10 years after his previous win.

The 1948 tour win is one of the most remarkable feats of determination I've ever heard of. During the tour, Plamiro Togliatti (leader of the Italian communist party) was shot. Alicide de Gasperi, an old friend of Gino's phoned him up after the shooting. He explained that Italy was extremely tense, and although Plamiro had survived the shooting, Communists had occupied factories, media, and parliament was in turmoil. Italy needed a hero. They needed Bartali to win a stage. Gino promised more. He said he would win. At this stage he was 20 minutes behind the leader, Bobet in the lead. The next day was a major climbing stage. Bartali finished that stage 6 minutes ahead of any other rider, putting him in second place, only a minute or so behind Bobet. By the end of the tour, Gino had won by almost 30 minutes. A phenomenal achievement for a man past his prime, winning on willpower alone. Gino Bartali's achievements united Italy, where tensions eased, and Italians celebrated an amazing victory.

Gino Bartali is often remembered for his rivalry with Fausto Coppi. Coppi was 5 years Bartali's junior, and whilst they were evenly matched, Coppi's youth allowed him to win more than Gino. Gino Bartali was robbed of his most important years because of the war. A terrible shame.

In 1954, at the age of 40, Gino Bartali retired. And in May 2000, he died, in the same place he was born at the ripe old age of 85.

One instance that is often quoted to illustrate Gino's ruthlessness on the road is when early in his career two sprinters tried to box him in, so making it impossible for him to pass without crashing. Gino being the hardheaded Italian that he was, rode straight through them, resulting in all three of them crashing. Nobody ever dared try such a move on him again.

Gino was a chain smoker. As a former smoker myself, I can tell you that smoking does severely hamper your athletic ability when competing at a high level. Gino managed to win cycling's greatest accolades, in his youth, and as an older man. One would think that his heavy smoking would shorten his career, but it didn't. Retiring at 40 years of age, Gino's career was one of the longest in the sport of cycling. Smoking didn't even leave him with a shortened lifespan as it does to many of those who indulge in cigarettes. Gino lived to the ripe old age of 85.

Links for more information:
http://web.tiscali.it/bunkerit/bartali/
http://www.repubblica.it/online/sport/bartali/bartali/bartali.html
http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2008/1/21/gino-bartali-a-cyclist-who-saved-a-nation.html
http://www.cyclinghalloffame.com/riders/rider_bio.asp?rider_id=21
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gino_Bartali
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4158/is_20000524/ai_n14315766

Spacers for mounting tubus cargo


When mounting a tubus cargo rack, you will have 2 plastic black spacers provided, which are about 5mm thick. These may be needed between the rack mounting points on the bike, and the rack so the rack is mounted without stress. Try without the spacers first. If you need to bend or force the rack inwards so it can be mounted at the mounting points, then you need the spacers. I've been running the tubus cargo with these spacers for more than 2 years, and have carried the missus on the back (50kgs) countless times. Enjoy the cargo, it's a solid rack. Zoom in on the pic shown on the left to see my spacers.

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Week ended 29th March 2009 mileage log

Bit of a poor week of riding. Didn't go to the gym early in the week, and the racing rides were shorter than usual. On the weekend I had lots of things on, so no time to ride.

Monday

09:30 - rode to Port Botany terminal (7.5kms)
17:00 - rode home (7.5kms)

Total: 15kms


Tuesday
08:30 - rode to Port Botany terminal (7.5kms)
17:30 - rode home (7.5kms)

Total: 15kms


Wednesday

06:40 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
07:00 - did 1.5 laps of centennial (5kms)
07:15 - rode down to Bronte (3 laps of hills, 1 long, 2 short), then back home (16kms)
18:50 - rode to squash (6kms)
22:40 - rode home (6kms)

Total: 38kms


Thursday

08:30 - rode to Port Botany terminal (7.5kms)
17:30 - rode home (7.5kms)

Total: 15kms


Friday

06:30 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
07:00 - did 2.5 laps of centennial (9kms)
07:15 - rode down to Bronte (3 laps of hills, 1 long, 2 short) then back home (13kms)
19:00 - rode to Shinara on pitt st in the city for dinner (6kms)
22:30 - rode home with Kate on the back rack (6kms)

Total: 40kms


Saturday
No riding :(

Total: 0kms


Sunday
No riding :(

Total: 0kms

TOTAL FOR WEEK: 123 kms

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Local Bike Shops (LBS)

Over a period of many years, I have dealt with a whole bunch of bike shops. This post is about the good ones, and the bad ones. I am based in Sydney, Australia, so most of these are from my local area, except ones that I have dealt with online.

The Good
Cheeky Transport
The best for commuting and touring. Often don't have a lot of stock unfortunately. But they know what they're talking about, and they're honest. The stuff they don't have in stock, they will get in for you.

Stanmore Cycles
Good for road bikes. Bob and the other guy there will spend a lot of time with you imparting their wealth of knowledge, and will not pressure you into buying anything. Fair prices, and excellent advice on road gear.

Ashfield Cycles
Good for road bikes. Will spend time to help you, without the need to be making a sale. When I went there, I was interested in a frame builder for custom steel frames. The owner of the store, and Tim spent about an hour ringing around for me. There was no benefit to them, but they were happy to be of assistance. Couldn't ask for better service.

Phantom Cycles
I've only dealt with them online. Great online service.

Rivendell Bicycle Works
I've dealt with the extensively online. Excellent products, great advice. A tad expensive, but they stock a lot of high quality exclusive stuff that is worth the money.

The Touring Store
Wayne from http://www.thetouringstore.com is excellent to deal with. If you are after panniers and/or racks, then this is the place to go to. Great service, great prices.


The Bad
Cell Bikes
A cheap and nasty shop that is halfway between kmart and an lbs. Very low prices, lots of cheap quality stuff. A lot of the guys working there just want to sell, like a supermarket. That's not to say that there aren't other good people working there, I just haven't met them. I went there to ask to buy an ultegra 53 tooth chain ring, 130 bcd, and i got looked at funny and told to try somewhere else. They just want to sell bikes, quickly.

Europa Cycles (Kensington)
The old fellow who works in this place (and probably owns it) has a wealth of knowledge, but it's hard to get it out of him. He'd much rather sell you stock he has on the floor. Tried to sell me a 50cm road bike. I normally fit around 56cm. The 50cm was all he had on the floor. I've also heard of others being sold low quality stuff as well, for above average prices. Keep away.


Misc
Clarence Street Cycles
I haven't had much experience. I can tell you that they are expensive, but the service appeared outstanding. Lots of stock on the floor too.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Frivolous (read: useless) modern bicycle innovations

Since the invention of the bicycle, there have been numerous innovations and changes made to the operation of the bicycle. Whilst many of these changes have been improvements, this post is about some of the most useless of those innovations.

STI shifters
This is the merging of shifters and brake levers. They are expensive, complicated, and difficult to repair. The only advantage is that you can leave your hands on the hoods to shift, and don't have to move them. The cable routing is annoying, and make the bicycle ugly.

External bearing bottom brackets
These apparantely make the bottom bracket stiffer. I still can't see what was wrong with square taper bottom brackets. Proven to last, there was no need for a change in this area. Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets tried to fix a problem that didn't exist, and external bearing bottom brackets are fixing up Octalink and ISIS.

Carbon frames, forks, seatstays, seatposts, bars
Carbon is lighter than steel. Apart from that there is no advantage. Steel frames come remarkably close in weight these days. More details here.

Indexed front derailers
Friction front derailers allow for trimming. Indexed doesn't, which is inconvenient. Campagnolo came up with half shifts, which is better than indexed, since you can sort of trim, but not as good as friction which has infinite trimming possibilities. More details here.

Threadless headset
Another solution to a problem that didn't exist. Threaded headsets worked fine, and quill stems make it easier to get the bars higher. The only advantage to threadless is cost of production, and the fact that water can't get into the headset as easily. The second of these advantages can be overcome by regularly greasing your threaded headset.


Plastic saddles
Leather saddles worked well. Plastic saddles save a little weight, for a lot of pain. They also don't breathe well, and look cheap.


I suspect that the next useless innovation will be electronic shifting. This is where when you hit the button to shift, instead of pulling a cable, a signal is sent to the derailer which then shifts instantaneously. What's wrong with the cable system? More money making tactics used by component makers.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Week ended 22nd March 2009 mileage log

Monday

09:00 - rode to Port Botany terminal (7.5kms)
17:30 - rode home (7.5kms)

Total: 15kms


Tuesday
09:00 - rode to Port Botany terminal (7.5kms)
16:30 - rode home (7.5kms)
18:00 - rode to gym (5kms)
17:00 - rode home (5kms)

Total: 25kms


Wednesday

06:30 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
07:00 - did 2.5 laps of centennial (9kms)
07:15 - rode down to Bronte (2 laps of hills, 1 long, 1 short), past coogee, maroubra, la perouse, and back home (32kms)
09:35 - rode to Port Botany terminal (7.5kms)
17:30 - rode home (7.5kms)

Total: 61kms


Thursday

no riding :(

Total: 0kms


Friday

06:30 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
07:00 - did 2.5 laps of centennial (9kms)
07:15 - rode down to Bronte (2 laps of hills, 1 long, 1 short), past coogee, maroubra, la perouse, and back home (32kms)

Total: 46kms


Saturday
12:30 - Rode to Brighton Le Sands for lunch (11kms)
15:30 - Rode home via Bunnings (13kms)

Total: 24kms


Sunday
08:50 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
09:00 - rode around centennial park, and back home (25kms)

Total: 28kms

TOTAL FOR WEEK: 201 kms

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Week ended 15th March 2009 mileage log

Monday

09:00 - rode to Port Botany terminal (8kms)
17:30 - rode to broadway in the city (12kms)
19:30 - rode home (5kms)

Total: 25kms


Tuesday
17:30 - rode to gym (5kms)
21:00 - rode home (5kms)

Total: 10kms


Wednesday

06:30 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
07:00 - did 1.5 laps of centennial (5kms)
07:15 - rode down to Bronte, did 1 short lap and 1 long lap of Bronte hill, and rode back home via clovelly (15kms)
10:00 - rode to Port Botany terminal (8kms)
18:30 - rode to squash (4kms)
21:00 - rode home (6kms)

Total: 43kms


Thursday
09:30 - rode to Port Botany terminal (8kms)
17:30 - rode home (8kms)

Total: 16kms


Friday

06:30 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
07:00 - did 2.5 laps of centennial (9kms)
07:15 - rode down to Bronte (2 laps of hills, 1 long, 1 short), past coogee, maroubra, la perouse, and back home (32kms)

Total: 46kms


Saturday
12:30 - Rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
13:30 - Did one lap of the park (3.5kms)
13:45 - Rode home via korean grocer (6.5kms)

Total: 15kms


Sunday
no riding

Total: 0kms

TOTAL FOR WEEK: 155 kms

Friday, March 13, 2009

Converting to downtube shifters

This is a nifty DIY to master if you are a touring cyclist. Changing your shifters involves changing shifting cables, which is a handy skill when on the road. One of the spare parts that I always take on tour are spare shifting cables, just in case a cable snaps.

I am converting from trigger shifters (deore LX - see pic) to downtube shifters (dura-ace) on my touring bike. The main reasons for this change are:

* Cleaner handlebar look without the shifters, and no cables coming up other than brake cables
* Downtube shifters are much simpler (less to break)
* Friction mode available which is handy on tour if the derailer gets knocked around and indexed shifting doesn't work
* Crisper shifting due to shorter cables (doesn't make much difference with modern cables and housing)
* Retro styling
* Less pointless shifting
* Convenient to be able to trim the front derailer with friction mode at the front

Start by shifting into the loosest cable gears. Unless you are using a rapid-rise system, this is the smallest ring at the front, and smallest ring at the rear.

Next remove your trigger shifters from the handlebars. Then loosen the allen bolt on your front and rear derailer which holds the cable. Take note of how the cable is held in each derailer - you will have to do the same thing when re-installing the cables.

Behind the shifter, should be a largish screw. Undo this, and the cable will come out if you push it from the other side. The screw is most likely made of plastic, and is just a cap for aesthetic (and maybe water resistance) purposes. Pull the cable all the way through. You may have to cut the end if it is frayed or has a cap on the end. I cut about 20cm off, so I could reuse the cables with the downtube shifters. The cable housing between the right chainstay and the derailer should stay where it is - you will need to reuse this when reinstalling cables.

Remove the adjuster barrel devices (see pic) from your downtube braze-ons. This usually requires a 3mm allen key. You won't need these with downtube shifters, since the shifters themselves attach to the bike at this point. You also don't need the cable housing that went from the barrel adjusters, to your shifters. Both of these parts should be kept as they can be re-used or given away.

Place the downtube shifter on the braze-on so that when pushed up to the max (anti-clockwise when looking at the shifter from the same side that the shifter is mounted on), the shifter stops inline with the downtube, or it might stop a little before the downtube. Some downtube shifters stop when pointing directly upwards. The front shifter (left) will probably only have a ring to tighten by hand. The rear (right) should have a screw for tightening, and a ring to adjust between friction and indexed mode. If you don't have indexed mode for the rear, it probably has a ring only just like the front shifter.

You can tell which shifter is for the left side and the right side by observing how they angle out. The shifter should angle slightly away from the downtube. If when moved they hit the downtube, you have them the wrong way around.

Angle the shifters so they are pointing roughly towards the headtube, inline with the downtube. Thread the cable through one of the shifters from the back (rear of the bike), towards the front. The cable then goes around the shifter in the groove, and down along the downtube.

For the front shifter (left shifter), the cable should go through the cable guide under the bottom bracket, and up between the chainstays, to your front derailer. Attach it with a little bit of tension under the allen bolt, and tighten. The cable tension for the front derailer is not all that important, since it is controlled in friction mode.

Do the same for the rear, but the cable should go along the right chainstay after passing under the bottom bracket, just as your original cable did. It will then feed in to the cable housing between the back of the chainstay, and the rear derailer. Attach it to the allen bolt of the rear derailer with only a little tension in the cable. We can adjust this tension with the barrel adjuster on the rear derailer, where the cable housing hits the rear derailer.

Note: im going to assume that your rear derailer was previously setup for your old shifters. i.e. the low/high screws are set correctly, and so is the b-tension screw.

You now need to adjust shifting. To do this, either put your bike on it's kickstand if you have a biped kickstand like the Hebie or Pletscher. Otherwise you can use a workstand, or place the bike upside down. Put a cloth on the floor so you don't ruin your saddle if you use the upside down bike method.

Turn the ring on the rear shifter until the red arrow points to SIS or indexed.
Turn the cranks so the rear wheel moves. Is the bike staying in gear ok? if not, you may have too much tension and have to release some from the cable by undoing the allen bolt holding the cable at the derailer.

Next, click your shifter downwards one click as you spin the cranks. Did the rear derailer move and shift to the next cog (2nd smallest)? Shift back and forth as you spin the cranks. It should smoothly change gears. Turn the barrel adjuster at the rear derailer clockwise to tighten the cable, and keep testing the shifting till it's nice and precise.

Now shift through the range of cogs while spinning the cranks. It should work fine. If it's not perfectly crisp, adjust the barrel adjuster slightly. If some gears are perfectly smooth, and others aren't, and you can't do anything about it with the barrel adjusters, you may have shifters that are incompatible with your derailers. i.e. the cable pull for a gear click on your shifter is not the same as required by a derailer for a single gear change.

For the front, spin the cranks, move the shifter, and see if it moves to a different chainring. If not, you may have to tighten or loosen the cable by undoing the allen bolt holding the cable at the front derailer. The cable tension doesn't have to be very accurate, because you are using friction mode. You want to have it so that the shifter can move the front derailer the full motion of it's movement (limited by the high and low limit screws).

Cut off the excess cable at the front and rear derailers. I like to leave about 30-40mm of cable. Use cable cutters to get a clean cut. To prevent fraying, put a cap (should be supplied, or available from any LBS) on the cable, and use pliers to clamp it on. If you can't find a cap, a drop of superglue (UHU is the best i've used) on the end of the cable will do the trick.

Now take your bike for a ride, and test it in the real world. Before you leave check that the allen bolts on the derailers were tightened enough so the cable doesn't escape when you shift.

Since doing this modification, I've found my average speed has increased. This is most likely because instead of downshifting whenever it becomes slightly difficult, I'll grind a bit harder. This is probably not optimal for endurance, but im sure i'll get used to it.

I moved my brake levers inwards to where the shifters used to be on my euro trekking bars, and re-wrapped my handlebar tape. The bars look so clean now.

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

micro indexed front shifters

I played around with a campy chorus (I think) micro-indexed front shifter on the weekend. It's the first time I've seen such a contraption. Shimano STI front shifters have 2 positions (or 3 for a triple) only. So you can't trim the front derailer when you are using the large ring at the front, and a largish ring at the back (not that you should make a habit of this). Trimming is very convenient.

I think the micro indexing is a great idea. I see it as almost as good as friction
front, which has infinite clicks - so many of them, you can't feel it! All my (geared) bikes have a friction front shifter since there is absolutely no advantage to an indexed front shifter. On the rear, I accept that indexing is an advancement. However I do like the ability to run in friction mode if I want to. Shimano Dura-ace downtube shifters provide this ability, and are nice and simple.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Week ended 8th March 2009 mileage log

Monday

09:00 - rode to Port Botany terminal (8kms)
17:00 - rode home (8kms)
18:00 - rode to gym (5kms)
21:00 - rode home (5kms)

Total: 26kms


Tuesday
08:30 - rode to Port Botany terminal (8kms)
17:00 - rode home (8kms)

Total: 16kms


Wednesday

06:30 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
07:00 - did 1.5 laps of centennial (5kms)
07:15 - rode down to Bronte, did 2 short laps and 1 long lap of Bronte hill (pain!), and rode back home with a half lap of centennial park (15kms)
18:00 - rode round rosebery area doing some hill climbing practice (5kms)

Total: 30kms


Thursday
09:00 - rode to Port Botany terminal (8kms)
17:30 - rode home (8kms)
18:30 - rode to gym (5kms)
21:00 - rode home (5kms)

Total: 26kms


Friday

06:30 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
07:00 - did 2.5 laps of centennial (9kms)
07:15 - rode down to Bronte (2 laps of hills, 1 long, 1 short), past coogee, maroubra, la perouse, and back home (32kms)
17:45 - rode to the rocks for social club dinner (8kms)
19:30 - rode home (8kms)

Total: 62kms


Saturday
12:00 - Rode to Stanmore Cycles (9kms)

Total: 9kms


Sunday
no riding

Total: 0kms

TOTAL FOR WEEK: 169 kms

Saturday, March 07, 2009

Things I miss in modern bicycles

I am a self confessed retro grouch. This philosophy is reflected in my herd of bikes, and in their setup. I have listed below all the things that are not present in modern bicycles, that were previously standard. I've also tried to explain why where possible, and described the setup on my bikes.

Curved forks
These days forks can be made straight, and have the same characteristics as a curved fork. I like curved forks for purely aesthetic reasons. They just look more beautiful. Slim, curved steel. yum.

Slender tubes
It is only possible to have slender tubes with steel. If you tried it with aluminium or titanium, the frame would flex too much. Fatter tubes allow aluminium and titanium frames to be strong enough to support a rider. This is also aesthetic. It's like women - I prefer them slender and sleek, rather than fat and ugly :)

Leather saddles
Leather breathes, and makes for a more comfortable riding experience. It also conforms to your backside making long rides more comfortable, without the need for bike shorts. Most importantly, it just looks better. Plastic looks cheap.

Horizontal dropouts
Modern road bikes have vertical dropouts. This doesn't allow for singlespeed/fixed gear conversions. This is not a big deal, but there is really no real advantage to vertical dropouts, so why do it? Horizontal dropouts also look sexier.

Downtube shifters
Minimal maintenance, and friction mode is available if something goes wrong while you're out on the road. If your derailer gets bent, you may be able to get home in friction mode. Less cable length also means crisper, easier shifting. I prefer running the rear in indexed mode, and the front in friction, to facilitate trimming. The lack of shifters on the bars make for a cleaner cockpit look. Downtube shifters also eliminate frivolous shifting.

Friction shifting
I only use friction shifting on the front, to facilitate trimming. I refuse to run an indexed front shifter because it's pointless - there is no advantage. On the other hand I do use an indexed (downtube) rear shifter. This is because I have 10 speeds on my road bike, and shifting in friction is more difficult. It is still possible though, and I would use friction if riding my racing bike wasn't such a competitive affair.


Racks and rack mounts
I like bicycles that have rack braze-ons so that you can use the bike as a commuter if required.

Room for wider tyres
Room for wider tyres means you can have two wheel sets. A set for racing with skinny tyres, and light weight wheels, and a set for commuting around with. The commuter set would have more spokes, and fatter tyres.

Fender mounts and fenders
Fenders make a bicycle more practical for transportation. Without the braze-ons, it's difficult to get full fenders on.

Pump peg
This is a small braze-on under the top tube, on the back of the headtube. Useful for mounting a pump on.

Chain peg
A small braze-on on the drive side seat stay. Allows you to hang the chain on the peg when taking the rear wheel off to change a flat.

Lugged steel frames
Lugs look lovely and elegant. Particularly fancy ones used in the past by some bicycle makers like Colnago. High quality steel frames are hard to find in bike shops, but the ones that are there are rarely lugged.

Quill stems
The invention of the threadless headset is totally pointless. A classic case of trying to solve a problem that never existed. Threadless headsets are ugly, and make adjusting the stem height more difficult. The only reason for it's invention is to make the production of forks cheaper. My Surly LHT has a threadless headset, but I wish it had a threaded one, like my road 80s bike. Rivendell still makes threaded headsets (bless them), and the Fuji touring also comes with a quill stem. The only downside to a quill stem is that it is easier for water to enter the steerer, resulting in the stem binding in the steerer tube. To avoid this, just remove the quill stem regularly, and grease it well. It's easy to do anyway, only one allen bolt, and it's out. Some people claim that an advantage of the threadless headset is that the handlebars can be easily swapped, since there is two (or four) bolts rather than only one. And with a quill stem you have to take the bar tape and a brake lever off to remove the bars. This is true of old quill stems, but you can get quill stems with 2 (or maybe 4 even) bolts, giving the same advantages of the threadless stem. The Fuji touring bike comes with such a stem.

My Setup
My Surly LHT has all the braze-ons I like, and is made of steel. Unfortunatly it's TIG welded, not lugged. This is purely an aesthetic point. Shifters are currently trigger shifters, indexed. I'm in the process of converting this to downtube shifters, with the front in friction mode, and the rear indexed. The dropouts are vertical, which I think is silly. Brooks B17 leather saddle and a nice curved fork.

The racing bike is a 1980s lugged steel frame. It looks really nice. Horizontal dropouts, downtube shifters, Brooks swift leather saddle. No rack or fender mounts unfortunately, and will only take a 28mm tyre, or a 32mm perhaps. The tubing is lugged, and is very slender, making it very beautiful. It has a chain peg, and pump peg. Curved fork of course.

Wednesday, March 04, 2009

People I admire

I am going to start a new thread of posts, about people I admire. Some (probably a lot) of these will be cycling based. But many will be unrelated to cycling. Off the top of my head I can think of several cyclists from past eras, programmers, engineers, and even celebrities. You can find these posts by the labels "heroes" and "legends".

Tuesday, March 03, 2009

Sweat and Brooks Saddles

All bicycle saddles that I use are models of brooks leather saddles. On my LHT I have a B17 standard (black), on my surly 1x1 I have a brown B17 standard, and on my road bike I have a Swift with copper rivets and titanium rails, in a honey colour.

Leather saddles are incredibly comfortable and conform to your backside with time. One issue to be aware of is that leather does not like moisture. Ideally, you would avoid all moisture on your leather saddle (or shoes, or anything else leather), but with a bicycle saddle this is impossible.

You can use proofide to provide some waterproofness, which does help. Fenders are very useful if riding in the rain, otherwise the underside of your saddle will get very wet.

When parking the bike in the rain, I cover the saddle with a plastic bag which is waterproof. When riding the bike in the rain, my backside is protecting the saddle.

The one issue that I have is on my road bike where the riding pace is very fast and extremely tiring. On the regular 40-50km rides I do on the road bike a couple of times a week, I am pushed to my absolute physical limits. During these workouts, I sweat profusely. Despite wearing padded cycling shorts, sweat still manages to drench my saddle, as shown in the pics.




Fortunately there have been no ill-effects experienced. I have let the saddle dry naturally after riding, and on my next ride it's as good as new. I'll repost with an update on long term effects after a few months of riding a couple of times a week.

Sunday, March 01, 2009

Week ended 1st March 2009 mileage log

Monday
09:00 - rode to Port Botany terminal (8kms)
17:00 - rode home (8kms)
18:00 - rode to gym (5kms)
21:00 - rode home (5kms)

Total: 26kms


Tuesday
08:30 - rode to Port Botany terminal (8kms)
17:00 - rode home (8kms)

Total: 16kms


Wednesday

06:30 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
07:00 - did 2.5 laps of centennial (9kms)
07:15 - rode down to Bronte, past coogee, maroubra, la perouse, and back home (28kms)

Total: 42kms


Thursday
09:00 - rode to Port Botany terminal (8kms)
18:30 - rode home (8kms)

Total: 16kms


Friday

06:30 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
07:00 - did 2.5 laps of centennial (9kms)
07:15 - rode down to Bronte, past coogee, maroubra, la perouse, and back home (28kms)
17:45 - rode to darling harbour (6kms)
19:30 - rode home (6kms)

Total: 54kms

Saturday
no riding

Total: 0kms


Sunday
10:35 - rode to Centennial Park (5kms)
10:55 - did 2.5 laps of centennial (9kms)
11:10 - rode down to Bronte, and back up to near centennial and back home (16kms)
13:00 - rode to hyde park (6kms)
14:30 - rode home (6kms)

Total: 42kms

TOTAL FOR WEEK: 196 kms

Columbus SLX "star profile" racing bicycle.

Columbus SLX "star profile" racing bicycle.
A work of art :)

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